Friday, January 4, 2013

New Year's diet resolution? You have fun with that.

Perpetual spinach (Beta vulgaris var cicla) and a summer peach
Perpetual spinach (Beta vulgaris var cicla) gets sautéed with arugula-lamb sausages and a summer peach



I have a confession. That thing I said about pie being less fattening if you plan a garden while eating it? Not actually true. 

So if you followed my example and ate the equivalent of an entire pecan pie over the course of the holidays, not to mention several pounds of cookies, cakes, bagels with cream cheese and lox, champagne, candy, more champagne, and several pounds of latkes, you may be feeling a little sick of rich food right now. I certainly am. 

And also possibly a few pounds heavier than before the holiday season. 

Miner's lettuce with pappardelle, cherry tomatoes, and fresh ricotta cheese
Miner's lettuce with pappardelle, cherry tomatoes, and fresh ricotta cheese



So if your New Year's Resolution involves raw kale and plain celery sticks, I totally understand. You can even come over and help yourself to some organic kale from my garden. But I won't be joining you.

Produce shouldn't be a punishment. Yes, it's good for you. Yes, some veggies are best in their unadorned state, raw or lightly steamed. But piles of plain spinach or naked carrot sticks can get boring really fast, especially when you really want something warm and crispy and flavorful.

Panzanella with roasted zucchini, onions, heirloom tomatoes, garlic, and lemon zest
Panzanella with roasted zucchini, onions, heirloom tomatoes, garlic, and lemon zest


Kale salad with pomegranate seeds and feta cheese
Better than a kale smoothie: lacinato kale salad with pomegranate seeds and feta cheese
Here's the thing: there's nothing wrong with sautéing those veggies with a bit of butter and a splash of white wine. Fat is flavor, and fat + heat is texture, and a little fat is not going to make a damn bit of difference to how your jeans fit.

Of course, seasoning your asparagus with a dab of butter and salt is not the same as wrapping it in bacon and puff pastry. The former enhances the flavor and texture of the vegetable and is a reasonable everyday preparation; the latter uses the vegetable as a delivery platform for bacon and is a treat. 

Potato-leek soup doesn't actually need a pint of heavy cream and a pound of bacon to taste rich and thick and savory; just use quality chicken stock, a little whole milk (or unsweetened almond or soy milk), and half a pound of bacon. 

Sliced leeks (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum)
Sliced leeks (Allium ampeloprasum var. porrum) for potato-leek soup


So yes, I'm cutting down my intake of brie and peanut brittle, for a while at least.

But my New Years resolution is to explore more flavor, not give it up. I've got a pretty extensive herb garden, it's time I get more familiar with some of the inhabitants. Ditto my spice cabinet, and the shelves of interesting condiments and sauces I'm not quite sure what to do with. Let's find some recipes for lovage, Vietnamese coriander, winter savory, epazote, and rue; for ras el hanout, mango powder, and turmeric. (But maybe not all in the same recipe.)

Recipe suggestions are welcome. 

Lacinato kale salad with chickpeas and sesame seeds
Lacinato kale salad with chickpeas and sesame seeds